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East Meets West

The bar in Beijing where vintage Stetsons reign supreme. An excerpt from Stetson: American Icon, available now.

By Ping Zhu

Beijing may seem like an unlikely place to find a Western-themed bar—until you meet Denny Lee.

Denny Lee is a traveller, collector, and cultural activist who runs a travel agency that specializes in custom experiences, Lee is also the proprietor of Sweet Si, an oasis of Americana in Beijing. The space is brimming with the fruits of Lee’s journeys. It also serves as a hub for the city’s community of Western enthusiasts, including Stetson collector Been Lau, a spatial aesthetic designer, performance artist, and promoter of retro culture, who first crossed paths with Denny through a shared love of Stetson hats. United by their passion, they later organized the city’s influential, recurring “Golden Age” vintage party. We sat down with Lee and Lau to chat about their love for music and art, their first encounter with Stetson, and the amusing adventures they’ve had along the way in their collecting journey.

Your bar is absolutely amazing!

Denny: When I first had the idea to open a bar, I was certain that I wanted something that couldn’t be replicated. Not just wooden tables or whatever happens to be trendy at the moment, but something rooted in an authentic culture. I often invite international musicians to perform jazz, country, folk, and blues at the bar. It aligns perfectly with the essence I want to share. To me, this isn’t just a bar—it’s more of a shared space, a place where culture and community intertwine.

How did your fascination with Western American culture begin?

Denny: A few years ago, I was running a tourism business, traveling extensively around the world—exploring different corners of the world. The American West left a particularly strong impression on me, especially the Native American reservations in New Mexico. We often went on road trips in the US, renting a car and driving along Route 66, soaking in the scenery and immersing ourselves in the everyday life of small Western towns. I developed a habit of picking up things along the way—stones, pieces of wood, and even oddly shaped cacti—basically scavenging! I also bought handmade crafts at Native American markets: wood carvings, leather goods, sand paintings, blankets, jewelry. These objects weren’t expensive, but they created an emotional connection to the land. Every time I came back, my suitcase would be packed to the brim.

How did you first learn about Stetson?
Denny:
It was in 2015 at a Hollywood celebrity hat shop in Los Angeles. I came across several styles of Stetson hats—stunning designs with exquisite craftsmanship.

Been: In the 1990s, when I was a teenager, my earliest exposure to Western cowboys came through movies and television. I thought they were so cool.

What draws you to Stetson?

Denny: I have a deep appreciation for objects with a sense of history. Stetson, with its 160 years of legacy, carries a rich cultural story. There’s so much to learn from it—about history, craftsmanship, and the evolution of style. I even went out of my way to read books about its history. The history of Stetson is essentially the history of American hat culture, reflecting the nation’s growth and transformation. In its early days, Stetson focused on Western and workwear hats. The pieces we see today are mostly from after 1900. Earlier examples are lost to history, only documented in books. The 1920s marked a boom in the American apparel industry, and Stetson responded by launching a variety of hat styles to meet the needs of different professions. Hats from the 1920s to 1940s are now considered antiques and represent the true origins of Stetson’s iconic designs. Well-preserved pieces from this period are incredibly rare and valuable. This fuels my passion for collecting Stetson hats.

How do Stetson hats fit into your personal style?

Denny: Living in a city like Beijing, I adjust my style to suit the urban environment, focusing on naturally combining and layering pieces. There’s no need to overemphasize the Western vibe—balance is key. At the same time, Stetson hats are an integral part of my bar, where I aim to infuse the history and culture I love into every corner. I welcome anyone with curiosity to ask questions, and I hope everyone leaves with more than just a drink in hand—those conversations sparked by curiosity are always filled with energy and joy!

Been: Over two decades ago, I started blending vintage styles into my daily wardrobe, and over time, the American retro aesthetic has become second nature to me. Along the way, many friends, inspired by my unique approach to fashion and how I mix and match pieces, have discovered their own love for American vintage culture.

What kind of reactions do people have to your Stetsons? Have they sparked any surprising interactions or connections?

Denny: Many people don’t fully understand hat culture—they simply use hats as accessories for photoshoots. In this digital age, fewer people take the time to delve into the stories and traditions behind such pieces. I hope that those who own Stetsons will make an effort to explore their cultural and historical backgrounds—it adds so much more meaning to the experience!

Been: For me, the greatest reward has been meeting so many like-minded friends. We exchange ideas, share our collections, and inspire each other. These friendships span across the globe, connecting me with enthusiasts in countless corners of the world.

the greatest reward has been meeting so many like-minded friends. We exchange ideas, share our collections, and inspire each other. These friendships span across the globe, connecting me with enthusiasts in countless corners of the world

Is there anything else we should know about you and your hats?

Denny: Vintage or antique pieces, whether hats or other items, are incredibly rare treasures. I hope that those fortunate enough to own them will take care of them and treat them with respect. These items aren’t just things—they have life and soul. They’ve witnessed human history, they carry the stories of the past, and they can inspire the future. We should cherish them. Finally, I truly wish Stetson continued success. Let’s all bear witness to its evolution with sincerity and passion.

Been: I’m a fan of vintage culture, and top hats are an essential part of that legacy. In Chinese, the words for etiquette (礼貌) and top hat (礼帽) are homophones, and they actually share a common origin in meaning. This reflects how wearing a hat was once deeply tied to social decorum and respectability.

When did you get your first Stetson? What was it?
Denny:
In 2016, I bought my first Stetson in Los Angeles—a classic Open Road. I ended up getting

three different colors all at once.

Been: It must have been over twenty years ago, when a friend brought one back for me from abroad. I was really excited at the time because many of the idols I admired also wore Stetsons—Michael Jackson, Sylvester Stallone, and Slash, the guitarist from Guns N’ Roses. They were all great admirers of the classic fedora, and so I became one too.

How many Stetsons do you have now?
Denny:
I currently collect only older vintage Stetsons, mostly from the 1920s to 1940s, with some

unique materials and designs. Right now, I own about 20 of them, although I’ve gifted a few to friends.

Been: Over the years, I’ve probably handled more than a hundred fedoras from various periods. Many of the high-end and collectible hats are truly rare and hard to come by, especially considering they were made seventy or eighty years, or even a century ago. Finding one in good condition is not easy.

Where do you find most of your hats?

Denny: I’ve had great luck in Japan. In the mid-1950s, Stetson expanded its production and market reach to Japan, which was in recovery after the war. They released a series of Japan-exclusive designs during this time, marking the beginning of Stetson’s globalization. By the late 1940s, the brand was thriving, thanks to this business expansion. The 1950s saw a surge in Stetson’s popularity worldwide, and many [Japanese] celebrities still wear hats from that era. In Osaka, there’s this amazing secondhand shop whose owner is incredibly knowledgeable about hats. He shared so much about Stetson’s history with me, and we became great friends after that.

Been: Hey! Do you remember that one time? You called me and said there was a new batch of Stetsons at a shop in Japan, and you insisted I join you immediately. I had just gotten back to Beijing from Japan, and my suitcase wasn’t even unpacked yet! But I agreed right away, checked the nearest flight, and said I’d freshen up and head out. The thing is, while I was washing my face, the ticket price doubled. But I still bit the bullet and bought it. Thankfully, that trip turned out to be worth it!

Denny: Oh! That’s right! What a pricey face wash that was! (Both laugh heartily.)

Which one is your favorite? Do you have a Stetson that holds special meaning for you?

Denny: My favorite is a black Boss of the Plains from the 1920s, made of lightweight beaver felt. It’s an incredibly rare piece, one of the crown jewels in my collection, and I take great care of it. Lightweight hats represent the pinnacle of hat craftsmanship. In the early days, beaver felt hats were heavier— though still lighter than the wool hats that came later. By the late 18th century, beaver felt had become extraordinarily expensive, pushing manufacturers to shift to wool as a more cost-effective alternative. That’s why, by the nineteenth century, beaver felt hats were a symbol of quality and luxury.

Been: My favorite is a rare-colored, lightweight beaver fur Zephyr Weight Open Road from the 1930s. This is the original style of all Open Road models. The Zephyr lightweight beaver fur technique was a significant breakthrough in manufacturing at the time. However, due to its complex production process and intricate steps, it was very difficult to mass-produce. If you are fortunate enough to own a product marked with the Zephyr label, you’ve undoubtedly found a true treasure.

Excerpted from Stetson: American Icon (Rizzoli, 2025).